My time in jail

To get the real story on prison, you have to ask an inmate. Or, better yet,

become one.

by Chris Wright

Photographs by Mark Ostow

 

When the guard ordered me to take my clothes off, I began to suspect I'd

made a mistake. When he said, "Bend over," I was sure I had. But I did it:

stripped, doubled over, and braced myself. The world looks very different

when you've got your head between your knees, peering into the face of a

state employee who's peering directly into your backside.

But then, it's not your backside anymore, it's theirs. The question is,

what are they going to do with it? By the time I found out the answer --

"spread 'em" -- all I wanted was to go home.

 

Funny, a few weeks earlier all I'd wanted was to go to prison.

 

 

 

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DEPRIVATION CHAMBER: in Billerica, two inmates share a cell built for one.

The shock of being thrown into prison's cramped, dismal cells leads some

first-time inmates to entertain thoughts of suicide.

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In turn-of-the-century America, going to prison is the thing to do. One out

of every hundred American men is currently behind bars -- the highest

proportion of incarcerated citizens of any country in the world. The vast

majority of these aren't sociopaths or big-time hoods. Most prisoners are

ordinary people -- drug-possessing, drunk-driving, and petty-thieving

people, maybe, but otherwise just like you and me.

How does it feel, then, to be an ordinary person thrust into this

extraordinary world? I'd begun to realize that for all the blood-and-guts

prison movies I'd watched, the overblown memoirs I'd read, the handwringing

editorials I'd avoided, I hadn't the faintest idea of what prison life was

really like.

 

Besides, I was curious about the food.

 

To get a true sense of the prison experience, I figured, I'd have to go

there -- and go there as a prisoner. No guards and no inmates could know I

was a reporter. I'd need an alias, a crime, and the collusion of the prison

system. Right. I called the Middlesex County sheriff's office and told them

my plan. The guy at the other end laughed.

 

A week later, however, I got a call back.

 

"I don't see why not," said Brian Greeley, the sheriff's spokesman. Hell,

even I could see why not.

 

 

 

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So here I am, sitting in the sheriff's office on the 17th floor of the

Middlesex County Courthouse in Cambridge, having the living crap scared out

of me by the sheriff's inner circle. This is when I get my first inkling

that I might be making a mistake.

The prison for Middlesex County is the Billerica House of Corrections.

Though not exactly Attica, Billerica isn't Disneyland either. The prison

superintendent and the sheriff's lawyer compile a torrid, profanity-laced

account of what I might expect to encounter behind Billerica's walls:

 

"Some guys will have cigarettes tucked up their ass, some will have drugs."

 

"They'll be asking a lot of questions: `Who did you rat out? Where's your

paperwork?' "

 

"They'll be shaking him down 'cause he's a new fucking fish."

 

"We should put him in with some seasoned veteran."

 

"We don't want him to get creased in one fucking night, either."

 

"That's a crapshoot."

 

I can tell they're enjoying this.

 

There's a hard-nosed attitude that reaches all the way to the top of the

sheriff's office. The sheriff himself, James DiPaola, is a no-nonsense

ex-narcotics cop. The superintendent at Billerica is a gruff bulldog of a

man named Paul Norton, a 21-year veteran of the penal system who peppers

his speech with prison's most popular adjective. Even the sheriff's chief

counsel, the silver-haired John Granara, often speaks more like a seasoned

con than an attorney.

 

"You're taking a chance," Granara says. "Anything can go on in a cell. You

wanted the full effect, you're getting it, baby." He and Norton laugh.

"Great," I squeak. And so Granara, Norton, and I hash out a crime and an

alias and set a date for my two-night incarceration -- two weeks away.

 

 

 

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BLOCK PARTY: deceptively calm in the daytime, by night these desolate

hallways ring with nonstop, head-spliting noise.

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The prison at Billerica was built in 1929 to house 300 men. Today its main

building holds nearly twice that number, and its auxiliary buildings

contain another 500. Like most prisons in the US, this one is chronically

overcrowded, with two inmates sharing each of its single-occupancy cells --

a situation that inevitably leads to trouble.

In the past five years, Billerica has had two riots. One, in 1995, occurred

when fighting erupted among a crowd of 100 inmates watching a basketball

game on TV. The cafeteria was set alight. Riot police, state police, and

local police were called in. Tear gas was lobbed. The violence was quelled.

TV was banned. The second disturbance was in 1996 and involved 60 inmates.

This time the brawling was racial, between African-American and Hispanic

inmates.

 

Earlier this year there was conflict between two rival Latino gangs: a

local gang called Ņeta and the New York-based Latin Kings, who are

expanding into the area. "We had inmates fighting in the yard," says one

Billerica employee. "We put 10 in the segregation unit and shipped some

out."

 

Riots are rare, but fights are common. One of the more colorful incidents

occurred a couple of years ago during a game of floor hockey in the gym. A

forward had collided with a goalie and knocked his helmet off. Just like

the professionals, the two traded blows. Unlike the professionals, they

ended their fight with one player biting his opponent's ear off and

spitting it on the ground.

 

In the confusion that followed the fight, an inmate strolled over to the

ear, picked it up, put it in his pocket, went to the rec room, sat down

beside another inmate, and said: "I'll bet you a carton of cigarettes that

I have a human ear in my pocket."

 

Imprudently, perhaps, the other inmate said, "You're on," at which the guy

pulled the ear out of his pocket, only to have a cuff snapped around his

wrist. By the time authorities rushed the ear to the hospital, it was too

late to reattach it. That's the kind of thing prison does to you. When the

inmate had spotted that bloody object lying on the gymnasium floor, he

hadn't seen a human ear. He'd seen an opportunity.

 

And the guy who told me the story did so in the spirit of knee-slapping

comedy. That, too, is the kind of thing that prison does to you.

 

 

 

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DUTY BOUND: the tough prison environment doesn't take its toll only on the

inmates; depression, alcoholism, and divorce run high among Billerica's

guards.

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The day of my imprisonment, my horoscope reads: "The stakes are high, and

there will be no room for error. You feel lonely if you go out of town on

business."

Strange as it may sound, having an ear bitten off isn't my main concern.

Though I'm assured by inside sources that most sexual contact in Billerica

is consensual, the figures on prison rape are not encouraging. According to

the advocacy group Stop Prisoner Rape, 80,000 unwanted sexual acts take

place behind bars in the US every day, with a total of 364,000 prisoners

raped every year. As I enter the sheriff's office -- turn myself in, as it

were -- I feel like Buggered Man Walking.

 

I'm taken to Billerica by two officers, in the back of a cruiser. We spend

most of the trip rehearsing my story. If it doesn't add up, my fellow

inmates might think I'm a sex offender -- or worse, a rat. There will be no

room for error.

 

About a mile from the prison, we pull into a parking lot, where I get out

of the car to let them shackle me in "full hardware" -- leg irons and

handcuffs. The last 10 minutes of the drive are spent in silence.

 

Finally, we pull up outside the prison gates -- or, more precisely, the

prison door. Billerica was built around the same time as Alcatraz, but it

has none of that prison's menacing stateliness. Three stories of blunt

brown brick, it looks more like a mill than a prison. Still, it's an

imposing place, more so when the first of its metal doors clanks shut

behind you.

 

I enter the receiving area in a daze, an officer on either arm, and am told

to sit. The room is gloomy, a patchwork of dun, a dank basement. No wonder

the correctional officer -- or CO -- who books me in is so cheerless.

 

"Oh, a fucking limey," he says.

 

"The Orange and the Green don't mix," says another guy out of the side of

his mouth. I notice many of the officers have Irish names pinned to their

uniforms. I'd been told that Billerica is "incredibly white," but I hadn't

thought that this might translate into "incredibly Irish."

 

Too bad I'm incredibly English.

 

When I ask to use the bathroom, a CO says, "Don't you mean the loo?" The

laughter that greets this remark feels inappropriate, as if at a funeral. I

offer a weak smile and look around for the officers who drove me here.

Gone. No one here knows I'm anything but a common criminal. And it'll be

this way for the next 48 hours. You feel lonely if you go out of town on

business.

 

 

 

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What my stars failed to mention is that I'll also get in touch with my

inner naughty child. People say prison is dehumanizing, and it is. It's

also infantilizing. You are chided, bossed about, given that "I can't even

stand to look at you" look. Never mind the brutality of prison, it's the

nagging disapproval that gets to you. It's like being at the Registry of

Motor Vehicles, only here the clerks can put you in solitary for 24 hours.

They want to know my story. Name: Christopher Lancaster. Occupation:

construction worker. Birthplace: Ireland (a bit of ad lib). Address:

London, England. Offense: distribution of a class B substance. My story:

I'm here on vacation. I buy $500 worth of cocaine from some guy in Harvard

Square. I'm nabbed by a state trooper, arraigned, and released on $2000

bail the next day. I plead guilty and get 6 months. And here I am, inmate

#97827, being printed and photographed, putting my head between my knees.

It doesn't get any worse than this.

 

Or does it? Following the strip search, I am given my prison blues -- blue

coveralls with INMATE written on the back -- and led to a holding cell,

where a handful of dispirited men -- convicted of God knows what -- loll

about. One of them looks at me as if my very presence were an affront. If

you want to fit in, the officers in the car had said, then swear. I press

my forehead into the heels of my hands and say: "Fuck me." I hope it

doesn't sound like an invitation.

 

I keep my head down and go to work on an imaginary hangnail. Eventually a

CO calls, "Lancaster." Pick, pick. "Lancaster!" Oh yeah. I'm sent up to an

infirmary, where I have a couple of vials of blood removed -- for syphilis

and TB tests, I'm told. Then it's off to another cell a few doors down.

This one has a single occupant, lying face down on a bunk, either asleep or

dead.

 

As I enter, the guy on the bed stirs. He's chubby, maybe 20 years old.

"They can't break me," he says, apropos of nothing. Over the next hour,

another six or seven inmates are loaded into the 45-square-foot cell.

There's none of the brooding silence that marked the cell downstairs. These

guys are all talk.

 

One hot topic is drugs. "If I had all the money I've spent on crack," says

a goateed guy, "I'd have enough for a house." Another is sex. "I like to go

on those chat rooms," says a muscular kid. "In two hours I've got 10 phone

numbers and I'm getting my dick sucked."

 

Given the circumstances, it's surprising that these guys are so eager to

talk fellatio. Then again, prison has a neutering effect: a year in the

clink means a year, theoretically, without sex. Talking about it is a way

to reaffirm that it exists. Prison also generates an understandable fear

that your significant other will seek sexual sustenance elsewhere.

 

"Mine better fucking not," says the goatee.

 

"I always dump my girlfriends before I come in," a redheaded kid says. "I'd

go nuts."

 

At this, the chubby guy says, for maybe the tenth time since we've been in

here, "They can't break me." Then he gets up, walks over to the toilet, and

takes a piss.

 

 

 

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HOUSE OF HORROR: three stories of blunt, brown brick, Billerica stands as a

stark monument to the miseries of prison life.

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Paranoia is a big part of the prison experience -- your girlfriend is

screwing your best friend, you've been ratted out, the guards have it in

for you, someone's going to jump you. I, though, have a paranoia all my

own: someone's going to suss me out. It's not such a stretch, even if no

one recognizes me. There's an inside joke that many of these guys know the

law better than their own lawyers. Sooner or later, one of them is going to

ask me a question I can't answer.

It turns out to be sooner.

 

The guy who gets the ball rolling is the largest in our group, but soon

it's coming at me from all sides. Where am I from? What am I in for? How

long did I get? How much was my bail? Who was my public defender? Then I

have a brainstorm, one that will serve me well over the next two days: "To

be honest," I say, "I'd been partying for five days before I got busted.

It's all a blur." They seem to buy it. "Please God," I say, not acting now,

"get me the fuck out of here."

 

It's growing dark outside, which means we've been in this cell a good two

hours, with only a stiff ham-and-cheese sandwich to break the monotony.

When you're doing time, waiting becomes a kind of art. Some inmates are

better at it than others. "I don't want to be here," groans an older guy

with faded tattoos. "I never want to spend another fucking summer in this

place."

 

But he probably will. In 1999, the recidivism rate at Billerica was 68

percent. Most of the people in this cell have been here before, and most

will come back. One has spent 11 Thanksgivings out of the last 12 behind

bars. "What I wouldn't give to be out there," says the largest guy, staring

through the window at the waning light.

 

A couple of the guys speculate about how easy it would be to escape -- kick

the bars out, make a run for the trees. Actually, few people escape

Billerica. One guy did it -- calling collect from the Dominican Republic a

few weeks later to rub it in. Less successful was the guy who clawed

himself a burrow in the moldering plaster of his cell, where he huddled

until he was dragged out and taken to segregation. Many more people "hang

it up" -- commit suicide -- than successfully scale the prison's walls.

 

 

 

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One thing you learn in prison is that being locked up isn't always the

worst thing that can happen.

To get to the place where we'll spend our first night -- the New Man unit

-- we have to navigate the "day room," where inmates gather to play cards,

chat, or skulk about. This is where the riot of 1995 started. As we pass

through, a chorus of derision goes up: "That's him! The guy in the blue!"

It's a little joke the inmates like to play on new fish.

 

The thing is, though, it isn't always a joke. Sometimes someone will see

someone he knows, and sometimes that someone will get something done to

him. A couple of the braver guys engage their antagonists. I don't. As we

leave, one inmate approaches the redheaded kid and sneers, "I'll see you

later."

 

The New Man's lot is not a happy one. You're hassled by old hands, locked

up in a six-by-eight cell 23.5 hours a day for up to five days straight --

no reading, no exercise. Then there's the humiliation. Before lockdown,

we're strip-searched again, right in the middle of a chilly landing. This

time the CO adds "lift your balls up" to the repertoire of shame.

 

It's meant to be unpleasant, of course. Every element of prison life, right

down to the tarnished steel dinner trays, is designed to remind you where

you are. There are three floors. Each stairway opens onto a landing, at the

center of which is an officer's station -- a cage in which dour COs sit

before panels of controls. Behind this there's another cage containing open

shower stalls. On either side of the landing there is a long corridor,

lined on both sides with solid metal doors, each with a small barred

window. You cannot turn your head without seeing bars or grates or a

combination of the two.

 

We mill about waiting for our cell assignments: "Ramirez: K6 . . .

Lancaster: K7." As I make my way down the block, I feel as though someone

were chewing on my heart. Anything can go on in a cell. K7. I poke my head

inside. The color scheme is putty. There's a little metal shelf, a bunk

bed, a toilet and a sink, a window overlooking a litter-strewn yard. Beside

the window stands a beefy redheaded guy. I walk in and the door clatters

shut behind me.

 

The first thing I do is swear. "Bloody hell," I say. D'oh! My cellmate

grins, revealing an incomplete set of teeth. "Oh," he says, "a bloody

Brit." He grins again to emphasize the point. It turns out he's of Irish

descent, from Charlestown. Assault and battery, 10 months.

 

"I'm Irish too," I lie.

 

Raymond is actually one of the more agreeable assaulters and batterers I've

met. He's 30, the father of three, a regular at Billerica. There's a rumor

going around the prison that Raymond died of a drug overdose, and every now

and then a CO will come by and say, "I thought you were dead." He shows me

how to stick a milk carton over the light for ambiance. We spend most of

the evening discussing what we wouldn't do for a butt.

 

Smoking has been banned here since last October -- for health reasons.

Since the ban, violence has risen, and cigarettes have become valuable

contraband. A single butt in Billerica goes for about $15. To be caught

with one means being put into segregation. This hasn't deterred the

die-hards, though, who go to near-heroic lengths to sneak a smoke. In our

cell there's a piece of graffiti: "I need a cigarette." Below this someone

else has written, "Then suck my dick."

 

By his breathing, I can tell Raymond has fallen asleep. I doubt that I'll

be able to join him. My bed has a biscuity plastic mattress, starched

sheets, and a scratchy wool blanket. It's hot and musty in here. And

explosively, apocalyptically loud.

 

If you're treated like a naughty kid for long enough, you start acting like

one. And many inmates, like naughty kids, make a hobby out of noise. They

rattle, clatter, and clang with unflagging energy. They tap on pipes and

bang on windows. One popular technique is to turn your faucet on a

fraction, which produces a jackhammer sound. An anti-lullaby.

 

Even worse are the human noises, the all-night squawks and howls, the

nonstop whoops and caws, the multilingual banter, the hissed whispers.

Until now, I'd comforted myself with the thought that if my cellmate

started anything, I would simply yell "Guard!" A ludicrous idea. I'd have

to set off a small nuclear device to be noticed in this racket.

 

I finally enter a brittle sleep, only to snap out of it a short time later

to see my cellmate, big Raymond, standing beside my bunk in the dark. Here

it is, I think, calmer than I'd expected. I look down at his hand. Instead

of a shank, though, he's clutching a Styrofoam box. Five o'clock in the

morning and it's breakfast time. Holy shit. I sit on my bunk and savor two

cold, sloppy fried eggs. Oh happy day.

 

Or not. I fall asleep again, and when the sun comes up I find that I've

spilled yolk down myself, over my sheets, over my blanket, even over my

socks. Who knew eggs contained so much yolk? Raymond thinks this is the

funniest thing ever. "This guy spilled his eggs!" he yells to the guy next

door, who also seems to enjoy the joke.

 

Nothing anywhere near as exciting as the egg incident happens until lunch,

when two more Styrofoam boxes and four cartons of milk are slid under the

door. It's a cowpat of shepherd's pie, not bad. We gobble the gloopy sauce

and sticky mash in silence. I've never felt more like an animal, and I've

rarely had a more satisfying feed.

 

After this, it's back to nothing again. I've heard that prisoners overcome

boredom by letting their minds soar, like birds. What crap. My mind soars

straight into a brick wall before sliding, defeated, to the floor. For a

while we try to amuse ourselves by watching ants. Raymond's more into it

than I am, using scraps of food to herd them. "You're like the Bird Man of

Alcatraz," I say. "The Ant Man of Billerica."

 

 

 

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DRESSING DOWN: prison strips you of not only your liberty and autonomy, but

your identity. Many inmates respond with acts of fearful violence.

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By the time the cell door opens, Raymond has taken to capturing his little

friends and chucking them in the toilet. Before long, I will get a sense of

how the ants must feel.

Now that our day in lockdown is over, it's time for us to join the general

prison population. As far as I'm concerned, general population is a one-way

ticket to Shakedown City, a trip aboard the Shanksville Express.

 

We're herded once more along the cellblock and out onto the landing, where

I catch the eye of a guy -- a boy, really -- who looks even more terrified

than I feel. (I'm happy, however, to note that he's a good deal

better-looking than I am.) I try to latch on to Raymond, but he's mingling

like a guest at a costume party where everyone is wearing the same costume.

Several times I make a show of patting him on the back in a Hey buddy! way,

and then I get a bombshell: Raymond's being sent to minimum security, and

I'm going to medium. Heading into the general prison population, once again

I'll be on my own.

 

Here's everything I know about the general prison population at Billerica:

the average age is 32.8 years old. The maximum sentence is two and a half

years, though many of the inmates serve consecutive sentences, up to seven

years at a go.

 

The top three crimes are offenses against a person, 48 percent; drug and

alcohol offenses, 18 percent; property crimes, 14 percent. A very unhappy

two percent are sexual offenders. Eight percent of the population report a

drug problem, 12 percent an alcohol problem, and 54 percent a problem with

both. The racial make-up is 70 percent white, 15 percent Hispanic, 13

percent black. There are no figures on what percentage of the population

hates limeys.

 

My main objective, as I set foot in the dreaded day room, is to look

nonchalant. Mainly I do this by whistling. It becomes my thing. I whistle

in the gym, whistle in the laundry room, whistle in the prison yard. A few

inmates give me the hairy eyeball, and at times I feel like I'm being

circled, sniffed. But no one hassles me, or even talks to me. Maybe they

think I'm a nut. Watch out for the whistling guy, he's bad news.

 

More likely they're just biding their time.

 

The longer I go unscathed, the more confident I get. I even pluck up the

courage to take a shower.

 

It's a fairly warm day, so I spend a lot of time in the prison's two yards.

The smaller yard, hemmed in by pocked brick walls, is a bit depressing. The

larger yard, though, is nearly pleasant. It has a baseball field, a

basketball court, a track, and rows of chain-link fences, each topped by a

scribble of razor wire that shimmers in the sun.

 

To help pass the time, I play a little game with myself: Guess the Crime.

The barrel-chested guy with squinty eyes -- robbery; the loner with the

Beatles hairdo and Karl Marx beard -- drugs; the portly guy who looks like

an insurance salesman -- booze; the cheerful teen -- auto theft; the glum

guy with patchy skin -- restraining order; the skinhead with the teardrop

tattoo below his eye -- assault.

 

I find the library and borrow a couple of books, Nabokov and Updike, then

get a bit of a twinge: maybe literary fiction will be seen as a sign of

weakness. Maybe I should have gone with Grisham. At one point, an obvious

hard case crosses my path. He doesn't say anything, just looks out at me

from beneath a thick, forehead-spanning eyebrow. I think he must have

rehearsed that look for a long time. After this, I'm feeling decidedly less

sanguine.

 

Another guy walks over and asks if I'm new. I manage to choke out a yes.

The guy says: "Welcome."

 

 

 

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When I get to my new cell -- the one where I'll ostensibly be spending the

next six months -- my cellmate is there. He's an older guy, mid 50s. He

wears glasses, the kind that make your eyes seem bigger, and a few

straggles of hair spring from his glossy head. He's in for operating under

the influence. "I'm just an ordinary drunk," he says, before showing me

which shelves are mine.

Alan has had eight cellmates since he came here in November. "I won't tell

where the bodies are buried," he says. The only time he worries me, though,

is when a guy in another cell yells something about passing contraband from

his butt like a chicken laying an egg, and Alan starts clucking. Otherwise,

his dry humor is a nice change from the usual banter about cigarettes and

blowjobs.

 

Like almost everyone else here, Alan's a repeat offender, and he seems even

more versed in prison culture than Raymond. He does that thing where you

hold a mirror outside your cell door to see what's going on. He points out

the work details that pass by. Then he points out a group of PC --

protective-custody -- inmates in the yard.

 

General-population inmates are let out of their cells six times a day:

three times to eat, and three times for recreation. For their own safety,

PCs are isolated from general population -- they eat, shower, and exercise

alone. The PCs are the snitches and the skinners (sex offenders), and they

are the most reviled people in prison. They suffer an endless stream of

abuse, and, if the chance presents itself, much worse.

 

One PC, a chester -- a child molester -- recently got snagged by a couple

of inmates. By the time they were done with him, the chester's teeth were

decorating his cell floor. One of the guys hit him so hard his knuckles

came through the skin. Another piece of Billerica lore tells of a rapist

who was castrated with a fork.

 

I must look worried, because Alan says, "Keep your head down, and you

should be okay." Then it's off to the cafeteria, with its rows of long

metal tables, for dinner: a cold pastrami sandwich.

 

Mealtimes in Billerica are a big deal. They are among the few routines in a

prisoner's day that suggest a semblance of civilian life. Beyond this,

eating offers rare sensual pleasure. If you see an inmate with a truly

satisfied look on his face, chances are he's got a mouthful of tepid chow.

Prison food is by no means gourmet, but it's plentiful -- and starchy and

greasy -- and the prevailing physique tends to reflect that fact. Prisoners

are not the glistening gym rats we see in the movies. There are few bulging

biceps, rippling abs, or chiseled pecs in here. Many inmates are, to put it

bluntly, fat.

 

 

 

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Back in the cell, Alan is making himself a cup of instant coffee with a

little electric kettle. They sell kettles for $15.20 in the prison shop,

along with playing cards ($1.55), antifungal cream ($1.50), and squeeze

cheese (70 cents). For some reason, it's heartbreaking to see him content

himself with this crumb of domesticity.

Over the next few hours, I genuinely grow to like Alan. He shows me how to

tie my sheets under the mattress so they don't slip off. He gives me a

plastic soap dish and a couple of packets of shampoo. And he explains the

importance of earning Good Time.

 

Good Time is given to inmates who attend meetings, take classes, and do

work detail. Keep yourself busy and you can earn up to 12 days' worth a

month. Good Time negates bad time -- every hour you earn is an hour knocked

off your sentence.

 

At first I thought the whole idea was a bit cynical: you go to an

Alcoholics Anonymous session and rack up your Good Time, knowing you'll be

sucking on that bottle all the earlier. Then I go with Alan to an AA

meeting. The inmates sit and listen to other inmates' bitter confessions,

and you feel that, no matter what their motives are for coming, something

good is coming out of this.

 

Besides AA and Narcotics Anonymous, Billerica offers violence-intervention

programs, GED courses, a life-skills class, a computer class, an

auto-repair program, even a barbershop where you can learn the art of

hairdressing. Then there are assorted work programs, which allow inmates

varying degrees of freedom.

 

Without these programs -- and the Good Time they bring -- morale would

plummet. You can hear it in the way they talk: this is one of the few areas

where prisoners can feel some control over their fate, even regain a little

bit of dignity. And this is a good thing for everyone. After all, you can

shut people off from basic human needs for only so long before you're

helping turn a petty criminal into someone who would bite off an ear. As

one prison official says, "Eventually these guys are going to get out --

they're going to be your neighbors."

 

 

 

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As my cell door slams shut for the night, I come very close to giving up

the game. I'm tired of being bored, tired of being scared, and just plain

tired. I gaze out of the window and say, "I wish I was out there." Deadpan

Alan lifts a loose corner of bug screen and replies, "Go ahead, I'll hold

the door for you." Then he says, "I wish I was out there, too. Outside

those fucking walls."

Next week, Alan has a revise-and-revoke hearing coming up, at which he'll

learn whether he'll be allowed to return to his life, or whether he'll have

to spend two more years in this cell. He's hopeful, he says, sipping on his

coffee, very hopeful. I'm starting to hate the lies I have to tell him,

especially when he browbeats me about going to meetings: Good Time.

 

My last night in prison turns out to be even more restless than my first.

One guy yells some Spanish word -- "Hoyoda!" it sounds like --

compulsively, the way a caged lion paces. Then there are the indescribable

clanks and clatters: Buicks being thrown out of third-floor windows,

aircraft carriers being dragged along cobbled streets. I climb beneath my

yolky blanket and listen to my cellmate's snores, the songs of frustration

filling the night.

 

 

 

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The next morning, as always, the doors grate open before sun-up.

Bleary-eyed inmates shuffle toward the dining hall, scratching their arms,

coughing. Breakfast today is cold pancakes. Yum. Waiting in line to get

served, an inmate turns to his friend and says, "So, what do you want to do

today?" They both laugh.

There's a lot of prison humor in prison. During the morning rec period, I

overhear a guy decline a game of cards: "I'm here for rehabilitation," he

says, "not entertainment." At lunch, we're given spaghetti. It's Ash

Wednesday, and so we have the choice of clam sauce as well as the usual

tomato. "Clam sauce in prison?" says an inmate to a nearby CO. "What next,

chicken al-fucking-fredo? Where is the punishment?"

 

When the excitement over the clam sauce dies down, the hall is filled with

the sound of mass slurping. An inmate opposite me, a huge black guy, wolfs

down his huge helping of spaghetti and complains about still being hungry.

I can only eat half of mine, so I offer him my leftovers. He declines,

politely, and offers me a carton of milk. Even more politely, I tell him

I've had my fill, and he gives the milk to a shaven-headed white kid before

turning to a Hispanic guy to discuss what sounds like a pretty nasty crime.

 

One of the biggest surprises I get at Billerica is the racial climate. I'd

expected a perpetual standoff. Though there are lines of demarcation

between the black, white, and Latino populations, on the individual level

there seems to be a fair amount of integration.

 

Just as I start feeling warm and fuzzy, I overhear a snatch of conversation

-- "Kill that bitch" -- and notice a guy at my table who has a piece of

gauze taped to his neck. Apparently he got into a dispute over a card game.

The gauze is covering a bite wound.

 

Even so, later that day I am happy to fall in with a card crowd. We play

cribbage on a board made out of an old flip-flop. I am a pretty good

player, and soon I've strung a few wins together. It feels good: the

Cribbage King of Cellblock B. "I play better with a beer and a cigarette,"

I quip, and this starts everyone going on about beer and butts. In a few

hours, of course, I'll be having a drink and a smoke. For some reason this

makes me feel ashamed.

 

 

 

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Afternoon lockdown is at 3:15. I'm supposed to be taken out of here at four

o'clock sharp. As Alan sits and sips his coffee, I can barely contain

myself. I fidget, pretend to read, fidget. "It's tuna and pasta tonight,"

Alan says. Sip, sip. Then the door opens. Know-everything Alan -- Alan of

the mirror held outside the cell door -- looks startled. "I don't know what

this is all about," he says.

A huge guard appears at the door. "Lancaster!" he barks. "Step outside!" As

he cuffs my hands behind my back, I can almost hear Alan's jaw drop. I am

marched along the cellblock, which erupts into a frenzy of noise. It looks

as if I'm being taken to segregation. "You've got the wrong guy!" a couple

of them yell. Some even batter their cell doors. Just like in the movies.

 

But I'm not going to segregation, I'm going to the superintendent's office.

"Uncuff him," the superintendent says to the CO who brought me in, who

looks uncertain about this. Then, "You can go." As the door closes, Paul

Norton and I burst into laughter, as if I'd just pulled some kind of silly

prank. God knows what the CO must have made of it all.

 

As Norton feeds me tea and cookies, all I can think is, I want out. I want

comfort, ease, a familiar restaurant booth. I want to have someone smile

and call me sir. Above all, I want a damn cigarette.

 

Outside, the officer who drove me here gives me two packs of smokes, Camels

and Marlboros: "I forgot your brand." Bless him. Back in Cambridge, he

treats me to Buffalo wings and a beer at the Ground Round. Puffing on a

Marlboro, sipping on a Sam Adams, I ask him about Alan's revise-and-revoke

hearing next week, which will determine whether he gets an early release.

 

"Slim chance," the officer says. "Slim to none."

 

That night, lying in my own bed, my wife cozying up beside me, I'm

restless. I won't get a full night's sleep for days, and right now I can't

sleep at all. Two nights in prison have left me jittery. When I close my

eyes, it all comes rushing back: metal trays, drowning ants, plumes of

razor wire, "I owe you a ass kicking" penciled on a cell wall, and Alan,

sipping a cup of instant coffee, saying, "Tuna and pasta tonight."

 

++++++++++++++++++++++

 

SIDEBAR

 

 

 

The Bartender

The top of the ladder at Billerica is James DiPaola, sheriff of Middlesex

County, who oversees the operation of the jail in Cambridge and the main

prison in Billerica. Before being elected sheriff three years ago, DiPaola

was a state representative from Malden, and before that a cop for 18 years

-- three of those as an undercover narcotics officer. He spoke to his

former guest Chris Wright at his office at the Middlesex County Courthouse

in Cambridge.

On crowding: "The average DOC facility has 500 people; we have about 1200.

It's like a little city. There are control techniques in place to maintain

order. There are things we have to stay on and monitor. How close are you

to the worst-case scenario of `losing the place,' as they say, which means

the inmates taking over? What are the small things that could lead to a big

problem in the future?"

 

On the population: "There are factions in Billerica, gang factions --

whether they be rival Latino gangs, rival Asian gangs, or rival

Latino-Asian gangs. In the midst of all these potentially predatory

individuals, you get people who have a serious alcohol problem and are

serving a year or two for drunk driving. We have a lot of people who are

actually mentally ill, who need treatment for mental illness."

 

On the guards: "My biggest thing here has been to raise the professionalism

of the department. When I first took over, the officers were doing three

weeks of training -- the academy we're getting ready to start will have 12

weeks. It's a tough, depressing job. Alcoholism runs high in correctional

officers, problems with family lives."

 

On being thrown in jail: "We had a suicide attempt the other night. There's

a real risk of depression and hopelessness. Someone who never got arrested

before suddenly finds himself thrown into a cell and he thinks this is the

end of the world. We try to let them know: you've got two and a half years

here. Relax, find something to do, use the opportunity to make yourself a

little better."

 

On rehabilitation: "It's easy for someone who's never been in the prison

environment to say, `Hey, to heck with them, throw them in the cell, feed

them garbage.' But we're dealing with somebody we're trying to motivate,

and motivation comes with a state of mind. I see it as a moral obligation

to try to get an inmate into the right frame of mind so that he's going to

accept a change in his life. We will provide opportunities for the inmate

who shows he wants to improve himself."

 

On prison conditions: "We're certainly not running a five-star hotel.

They're not eating prime rib every night and putting their feet up and

smoking cigars. But you treat a fellow human being as a human being, with

dignity and respect. You have to follow the orders of the COs. That doesn't

mean that when I want you to go to your cell it gives me the right to grab

you by the hair and throw you in there. The inmate has some expectation to

be treated fairly. You want to have that balance of fairness and being

tough."

 

On whether that makes him a softie: "Anybody who thinks the inmates are

being coddled, I would challenge them to do what you did. Come on up to

Billerica and see for yourself."

 

Chris Wright can be reached at cwright@phx.com.